Beer garden @ Markgräflich Badischer Gasthof Schwanen

Before I start to write about our last German supper at their beer garden, let me fill you in with the history of this hotel. I still regret about not doing any homework before visiting this amazing place which resulted in me not allocating enough time to explore the hotel and its surrounding area.

Markgräflich Badischer Gasthof Schwanen was mentioned by the chronicler Franz Xaver Staiger in 1863. He recorded that the placed was called the “Gasthaus zum Schwanen” and it was built in 1665 as a monastery guesthouse of the Cistercian monastery.

Reichsprallat Anselm II Schwab, one of the abbots of the monastery Salem who was portrayed in 1749 by Gottfried Bernhard Göz in front of the Imperial Eagle…

Once upon a time, it was a monastery wine tavern and pub, and now, the place is a restaurant with a beer garden for the locals and visitors…

The beer garden was half-filled with guests who seemed to be enjoying a long summer evening with a lively conversation and glasses of beer.

Mum and I sat ourselves down at one of the tables and ordered beer…

Ahhh, how much we loved German beer! They were well chilled and rich without being too bitter. A perfect accompaniment to alfresco dining.

The menu was brought by a waitress who spoke very limited English and their menu was described in German only. Hmm, what should we do? We looked around and found two diners nearby who were eating something looked tempting. ‘Let’s try what they have!’ I pointed at their table and gestured to the waitress. She, in turn, nodded and disappeared into the Kitchen.

While mum and I waited for our food, we sipped our beer and reminisced about our road trip. ‘Can you believe this beer garden is the last German beer garden of our holiday?’ We couldn’t help getting sentimental.

Then, the foods were brought to our table…

Mum had “Gebratene Schweinefilletmedaillons an Pfefferrahmsoße mit Eierspätzle und einum gemischten Salatteller” – fried pork fillet medallions with pepper cream sauce with egg tender pasta and mixed salad dish. She wanted spätzle because there would be nothing like it in Japan.
My last German supper was “Maishähnchenbrust an Rosmarinrahmsoße mit Basmatireis und einum gemischten Salatteller” – corned chicken breast with rosemary cream sauce with basmati rice and mixed salad dish. I hadn’t had rice for a long time, therefore, I enjoyed it very much.

While we were dining, we saw more than a few cyclists riding out from the gate nearby and were very intrigued by it. Maybe we should investigate what is behind the gate after dinner, we discussed as we chewed through our food…

Kaori by Kaori Okumura

Markgräflich Badischer Gasthof Schwanen @ Salem

When we arrived at Salem, the time was already 4 o’clock. ‘So we made it here in 3 hours then.’ Mum and I chatted as we unloaded bags from the car by the entrance of Markgräflich Badischer Gasthof Schwanen, our one-night abode. Hmm, where should I park my car? I scratched my head as the car park was already full and found no staff at the reception…

An wrought iron signpost of the hotel…

Mum posing at the front door…

Is anyone here?

I parked the car temporarily by the entrance, asked mum to stay with the car and went inside to look for a help. After sticking my head in almost every doorway on the ground floor, I managed to find a staff who processed our check-in. He also told me where to park my car and give me a sheet of paper with Wi-Fi password.

Our room was on the second floor and we climbed up their well polished staircase…

Before it was converted to a hotel, this building used to be a part of a local monastery. The history was reflected on their pared-down decor.

The place was very quiet…

Our room…

The furnishing was simple but it was well-tended and clean. As I opened the east-facing windows, slightly humid air rushed into the room.

‘Shall we go down, mum?’

We headed to an adjacent beer garden for a well-earned cold beer and grub…

Kaori by Kaori Okumura

From Eibsee to Salem

My apology for not updating my blog regularly. It has been a bit too hectic recently and I didn’t have much time for myself. As soon as the things are settled, I shall resume the blog properly again. Thank you very much for your understanding.

Now, let’s start today’s entry!

The recent weather reminds me that we are a knee deep into the proper autumn. Gradually, I have started to notice that hue of everything around me is less vibrant from the summer’s, like we are draped in a thin layer of sheer fabric in pale dove grey. So, the summer is truly over, huh?

What a fun time I shared with my mum during last June! I couldn’t help having a deep sigh as I went through the images of our road trip on my iPhone, preparing the next blog entry. It was hard to believe that the holiday was only less than three months ago. I really must press on to finish the chronicle because my memory of the trip is fading fast, I thought with a tinge of panic.

Our next destination from Eibsee was a place called Salem. I didn’t know much about the place but I chose there as our one-night abode because it was the easiest location to find an accommodation within our budget.

*As I mentioned before, all of the photos from the car was taken by mum.

We came across a procession of priests and alter boys somewhere along our journey from Eibsee to Salem…

Unfortunately, mum failed to take the photo of the domed roofed church which we drove past. The roof was painted in gold and it resembled the Wieskirche.

Oh, we shall miss the mountains of Bavarian Alps, mum and I nodded in agreement…

It feels like it happened a light year ago. Things are more fun and exciting then…*sob*

Kaori by Kaori Okumura

Going back to Eibsee

After a cake & coffee break, we headed to a cogwheel train terminal. ​


We queued well ahead of the time so we could grab the best seat of the train – the left side front seat of the first carriage. The reason for this was because it would guarantee an unobstructed view over Lake Eibsee.​


​At crossing loop 4, our train stopped to wait for oncoming uphill train.


Once the trains passed each other, our downhill journey resumed.

Then, the trees thinned out and we were treated with a grand view of Lake Eibsee. The emerald green of the lake was breathtakingly beautiful!

Our train arriving at Eibsee…


​Are you ok, mum? She looked a little tired…

Thank you, you hardworking cogwheel train…

Without you carrying us up, we could never see the real alps with our naked eyes!

Kaori by Kaori Okumura

Cake break @ Zugspitzplatt

So mum and I came down from the windswept summit of Zugspitz by hopping on the cable car again.

Say hi to the climbers!


We found out that a return cogwheel train back to Eibsee had just left, therefore, there was another half hour wait for the next one. ‘Shall we have some tea & cake?’ We headed to a cafeteria.

The interior of the cafe was very Tyrolean.

Mmmm, there are so many moreish looking cakes…

I must say that the cost of food and drink up the Zugspitzplatt was rather high. I can’t remember exactly how much we paid for two cakes and two mugs of coffee but it was more than a double we paid normally in Germany. However, transporting all the supplies up the mountain didn’t come cheap and which must have reflected on the prices in the cafeteria.

It was around 11 o’clock when we queued at the till behind a group of workmen with high-visibility jackets and srturdy work boots. Unlike our tray with just coffee and cake, their trays were laden with plates of pasta and meatballs, a proper construction worker’s grub.

Our morning treat after being beaten by the wind.

Can you see how huge their cake was? And they were delicious too.

We chilled out at the cafe much longer than we first intended because their (pricy) coffee was very agreeable.

Now, we must get back to the car and travel to Salem, I urged mum. The place was 194 km away from Eibsee and the journey was expected to take four hours, therefore, we couldn’t do dilly-dally too long.

Bye bye, Zugspitzplatt.

We left the cafe and headed to the cogwheel terminal…

Kaori by Kaori Okumura

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