Kurofunetei @ Ueno

Friday night was special for me.
I got together with some of my old ice hockey teammates and watched a women’s hockey final on TV together. Oh, I really missed them. We recounted all little funny episodes we shared. I do miss hockey but I miss my lovely teammates a thousand times more. We pined for our team which had to be folded because of the circumstance beyond our control two years ago. How we wished if we could turn the clock back…

After finding ourselves firmly locked out of the NMWA, we headed back towards Keisei Ueno Station (京成上野駅). ‘At least we can look forward to our lunch, can’t we?’, I tried to cheer mum up.
The restaurant we decided to have lunch was Kurofunetei (黒船亭), one of the oldest Yōshoku (洋食) – Japanese Western cuisine – restaurants in Japan. It was located about 3 minutes walk from Ikenohata exit (池之端口) of Kensei Ueno Station…

20140222-170350.jpg

Contrary to our expectation, the eatery was situated above a branch of McDonald’s. We were a bit taken aback because the entrance to the reputed restaurant was rather understated to say the least – through a discreet lift hall tucked around the fast food restaurant. We alighted the lift at the fourth floor and there they were, we found a door to Kurofunetei. Once we were inside, a waiter in a crisp white shirt and a black waistcoat ushered us to a table by the window…

20140222-170437.jpg

Because of our unsuccessful detour to the Monet exhibition early on, we managed to miss the lunchtime rush. The restaurant was sparsely occupied by a few elderly couples.

The present Kurofunetei did not start as a western-style restaurant when the founder, Suga Sōkichi, opened the eatery in 1902. he moved from his home town in Tochigi (栃木) – northwest of Tokyo, and started a Japanese restaurant in which it had not only a dining room but also a hot bath with a waterfall and a pond. In 1917, he and his son, Toshio, renewed the restaurant as a bistro and named it Cafe Kikuya (カフェ菊屋). The new enterprise reflected the mood of the Jazz Age. All “Haikara” (ハイカラ) – anything Western was in vogue. The bistro served imported liqueurs, hors d’oeuvre and Japanese Western-style menu, such as Hayashi Rice (ハヤシライス) -hashed beef rice.
In 1937, as a change of tack, Toshio, folded the bistro and started a Chinese restaurant, Ugetsusō (雨月荘). No expense was spared in building a new premises, a three-story timber structure was all-cypress and equipped with a mechanical lift for the guests. It also sported opulent decor and a sumptuous Japanese garden. The imperial family as well as heavyweight politicians flocked to the restaurant, even Mishima Yukio gave a party there in 1944. The restaurant was a resounding success. However, it was razed to the ground by a large-scale air raid by the Allies on the 10th March 1945. After the war, Toshio resurrected his business amidst of a burnt ground by opening an American-style diner, Nissan Soda Fountain, reflecting the mood of the American occupation of Japan.
Later in 1951, the diner was turned into a cinema, Ueno Park Theatre, as movie-going became the most popular past-time in the post-war Japan. The cinema was closed in 1969 and replaced by a four-story building, housing a men’s boutique on the first floor, a ladies’ one on the second and on the fourth floor, a predecessor of Kurofunetei, Restaurant Kikuya, an eatery specialised in French cuisine and steak. The boutiques imported apparel from Europe and was reputed to rival Wako in Ginze for taste and quality in its heyday. In 1986, Restaurant Kikuya was handed over to Kōichi, the founder’s grandson and rechristened as Kurofunetei.

A view from the window…

20140222-170857.jpg

It is hard to imagine how the ground below was covered with cindered houses after the war. I was happy to learn that they managed to weather a cataclysmic event such as WWII and the business stayed within the same family. A seemingly ordinary scenery from the window did not reflect a dramatic twist & turn this particular patch of land went through.

A small salad arrived prior to the main course…

20140222-171017.jpg

This bright orange dressing over my salad is quintessentially Japanese. At any old-fashioned yōshoku eatery, the salad has to come with this sweet and sour dressing. A plenty of grated onion is the key to making a dressing flavoursome. And a dash of orange juice sweetens the condiment.

Ta-dah! My Omuraisu (オムライス) – Omelette rice, is here!

20140222-171104.jpg

If there were a national contest for nostalgic food memories in Japan, this Omuraisu would be a victor if not within the top fifth in popularity. Omuraisu is simple. The short grain rice cooked in chicken stock is flavoured with ketchup and wrapped in a large 3-egg omelette. Once omelette with rice is transferred to the plate, it is garnished with yet more tomato ketchup or demi-glace, French-style rich brown sauce. I must say the charm of omuraisu lies in its predictability. It’s soothing, gentle and benign – no sudden surprise by spice or chilli. And the colour, yellow and red, it’s uplifting and cheerful. A perfect nursery food I can carry on eating forever.
In my omuraisu, I found large prawns and they were very tasty. By the way, mum ordered the same dish and she enjoyed hers very much too. The omuraise at Kurofunetei definitely saved our day and we headed towards Shinōkubo (新大久保), our next destination with renewed vigour…

Kaori by Kaori Okumura

Egg Benedict @ The Wolseley

The Wolseley had been one place I always tempted to visit but never managed to do so for no apparent reason. Therefore, I eagerly included the Wolseley in my short-list and forwarded it to Madam Bentley when she suggested a brunch date last week. She must have picked up my secret plea from my email because she proposed the Wolseley from the list. Yippee!

The good old Wolseley. Can’t remember how many time I walked past you. But today, I am walking in instead…

Image

The inside of the restaurant was already a hive of activity.
Under its arched ceiling, chandeliers with a contemporary twist were suspended elegantly. A midday sunshine was flooding in from the large west facing windows, making the Wolseley’s signature monotone interior decor even more striking. As smartly clad diners chatted to their companions animatedly and their cutlery clinked, waiters glided between the tables briskly without lacking their professional grace…

Image

Soon, Madam Bentley and I were ushered to one of the tables and settled into it nicely by their smily receptionist…

Image

Madam Bentley, fresh from her romantic weekend in Brighton…

Image

What did we order for our brunch? Yes, as you probably have guessed it from the title, it was Egg Benedict…

Image

I must say, their Egg Benedict tasted better than the Shepherdess’s. Having said that, it was rightly so because the dish was nearly five times more expensive. Madam Bentley and I munched through our delectable breakfast and chatted about the events of the past four weeks.

After relishing our first visit to the Wolseley, we walked up Old Bond Street, admiring a row of fine jewellery stores as well as their opulent Christmas decorations.
At the junction with Conduit Street, we turned right towards Regent Street…

Image

The sky was full of dramatic looking clouds after early morning rain. It resembled a giant tiger print…

Image

A perfect backdrop for Christmas decorations…

Kaori by Kaori Okumura

Blog at WordPress.com.